But let sit for at least three of four days, I prefer a week, before slapping. If I want gloss Ill add a final thin coat. I will often do a level sand/scrub day two with 0000 steel wool and then hit it on the buffer to get a nice semi-gloss. ![]() I have never had a coat of Tru-Oil take more than 24 hours to fully dry when sticking to this formula! For the past 2 years I have been using WOB's formula, Min-Wax Wipe On Poly and am very pleased with the results I have gotten, also letting each coat dry 24 hours in a warm climate. Final wait time I like to go out to a couple days at least, that seems to let it harden up quite nicely. Thin coats applied due to the compound curves of the gunstock. That is the "secret" to Tru-Oil drying quickly. A step by step guide on how to achieve a high gloss finish using just tru oil. As snake mentioned, a good stock filler will "cure" a lot of problems before they surface! Also, if you are in a very humid or cold climate, make sure you put each coat of Tru-Oil on and let dry in 70 to 75 degree heat. I have done many, many stocks with Tru-Oil over the years and once did an experiment where I finished several pieces of the "same" wood from 3 to 24 coats of Tru-Oil and found no difference after the 6th coat so from there on out I usually did 3 to 6 coats on all stocks as long as the pores were filled "properly". ![]() That usually determines whether or not I use a "filler" first. I usually examine the wood very closely with a magnifying glass after preparing the stock for the finish to "determine" just how poreous the wood is. RedLabel, No "two" pieces of wood are the same so there is no cut & dry method when using Tru-Oil or any other finish.
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